LOEWE
最近一次更新的 7 五月 2012
Autumm - Winter 2010/11
Autumn Winter 2010 2011
This season Loewe has evoked the fantastical ladies of Spanish cinema and the legacy of golden era Hollywood in Madrid initiated by Ava Gardner and Ernest Hemmingway. Sumptuous leather finishing joined with linear modernity possess a stately Spanish essence, as do the combination of lace, sequins and embroideries on pared down leather shapes. The sobriety of hard, austere tailoring is joined with a soft romantic opulence in the contrasts of both cuts and material decisions. Modern craft and Loewe´s leatherwork heritage maximize the wear and longevity of everyday clothes. Leather remains the crucial foundation of the collection to acknowledge both the customers´ connoisseurship and their contemporary needs.
The silhouette is elongated by combining high-waisted skirts, trousers and dresses with cropped outerwear, all belted or tailored at the waist. Precisely cut kimono sleeves and tailcoat detailing on sharp suits altered from the menswear collection are worn with sequins, feathers, lace, retro prints, fur shrugs and pyjama shapes. Lighter weight materials are combined with leather to become more seasonally appropriate
and functional whilst the mix of materials makes for a playful and unexpected result. The palette consists of subtle variations of deep colours such as winter white, natural fur, taupe, dusky violet grey, mauve, purple and brown in prints, knits and weaves. Varying textures in each outfit are tonally connected. Metallic and black punctuate the colour palette, as do rich antiquated greens.
Fur detailing acts as a textural and tactile highlight around the outfits: on the ankles, around the collarbone, in hats and on accessories. Engineered shaved mink in the shape of a shrug are grafted on to jackets. Rugged but finished furs add a contemporary feel in a classic collar accessory. Proper leather bags with formal, functional silhouettes in superior materials showcase a renewed attention to detail and innovation in fine constructions, replacing the ubiquity of hardware.
The bags´ unexpected black metal detailing and playfully subtle colour combinations are intermixed with exotic skins and contrast stitches to enhance the different material combinations. Jewellery makes for a cooler, harder note in the form of linked signature padlocks in blackened metal on signet rings and chains. Black and white diamonds, onyx, tigers´ eye and jade ensure a classic counter-note.
